Dear friends,
Thanks to many of you I kicked off the production of Mother Tongue two days ago. I
arrived in Donaueschingen, Germany on Thursday, July 18 and was fortunate to find a
great hotel and a bike shop within a half an hour. I rented a bike in order to explore the town
with the intention of finding the source of the Danube, but it seems this act
thrust me into the middle of a controversy as to where the Danube actually
begins.
There is the storied memorial
of the Donauquelle – the spring of the Danube, (currently under reconstruction)
that is situated in the gardens of the palace of the
Furstenberg’s (local aristocrats) and lays claims to pilgrimage by the Roman Emperor Tiberius in 15
BCE and the Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian in 1499 along with many other
celebrities. The Furstenberg’s elevated the story of the Donauquelle as the
true source to the status of legend and representatives of many nations on the
Danube have placed reverential plaques on this site.
Donauquelle under reconstruction and sans the statue and plaques |
Legends aside, the more
moderate cartographers have placed the source of the Danube at the confluence
of the Breg and Brigach rivers about a mile away. Here I found two tipsy locals drinking Furstenberg beer (since 1283) on a bench by a statue of a woman and child.
The woman represents the Barr – the local landscape that gave birth to
the Danube and the Child of course is the fledgling river.
The tipsy guys were happy
to be interviewed and spoke haltingly in German about the river. My disadvantage is a lack of fluency in
German, so I will need to translate the interview in post- production.
Beer at the Breg, Brigach and Danube |
The mother - Barr, and child - Donau |
I find the people extremely
friendly and have had success getting answers to my questions. I ask people to respond in their mother
tongue to Key Words that I present to them.
The words are:
1. Danube
2. Usually these words are
the names of the two countries above and below the Danube of the country I am
in. In Germany, at the source of the
river it is only one word: Austria.
In Austria the words will
be Germany and Slovakia.
3. Borders
4. The possibility of no
borders
I met a group of guys
playing beach volleyball and one of them, Peter, took me in his car about 20
miles to the Black Forest where yet another contender for the source of the
Danube resides at the small town of Furtwangen at the source of the river Breg.
Here at an altitude of about 1000 meters above sea level in the beautiful Black
Forest you will find multiple plaques at the spring of the Breg claiming the
spot as the beginning of the Danube. Near the spring is also the dividing line
between the watershed of the Danube and the Rhine.
Peter at the source of the Breg |
The confluence of Breg and Brigach with Danube on bottom right |
These murky beginnings
point to how the landscape is washed in our wishes.
I’m taking a 3 day bike
ride to the city of Ulm (about 150 kilometers north east) tomorrow morning as
the Danube is not navigable at this point.
Peace
Note: Much of the historic background I am getting from Andrew Beattie's The Danube - A cultural History, a worthy read.